Acronyms like PHA, BHA, and AHA often appear on skincare product labels, leaving consumers like us puzzled about their meanings and applications. In this post I will try to help you demystify these terms, by clarifying the unique properties and uses of them three: Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA), Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA), and Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA).
1. Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHA):
Alpha Hydroxy Acids, or AHAs, are water-soluble acids derived from fruits and milk. Glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk) are two common types of AHAs. They work by breaking down the bonds between skin cells, promoting exfoliation and revealing fresher, more radiant skin.
Key Properties and Uses of AHAs:
- Surface Exfoliation: AHAs primarily exfoliate the skin’s surface, helping to remove dead skin cells and improve skin texture.
- Brightening: AHAs are known for their ability to fade dark spots, hyperpigmentation, and sun damage, resulting in a brighter and more even skin tone.
- Anti-Aging Benefits: Regular use of AHAs can stimulate collagen production, reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They contribute to a more youthful and revitalized complexion.
2. Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA):
Beta Hydroxy Acids, commonly known as BHAs, are oil-soluble acids with the ability to penetrate the pores deeply. Salicylic acid is the most well-known BHA, renowned for its effectiveness in treating acne and preventing breakouts.
Key Properties and Uses of BHAs:
- Deep Pore Cleansing: BHAs are highly effective at penetrating oil and sebum, making them ideal for individuals with oily or acne-prone skin. They help unclog pores and prevent the formation of blackheads and whiteheads
- Anti-Inflammatory: Salicylic acid possesses anti-inflammatory properties, making it an excellent choice for calming redness and reducing inflammation associated with acne.
- Exfoliation: BHAs exfoliate the skin by dissolving dead skin cells, promoting a smoother and clearer complexion. This exfoliation also aids in improving the appearance of enlarged pores
3. Polyhydroxy Acids (PHA):
Polyhydroxy Acids, or PHAs, belong to a group of chemical exfoliants that are considered the gentler cousins of AHAs and BHAs. PHAs have larger molecular structures, making them less likely to penetrate deep into the skin, resulting in reduced irritation and sensitivity. They primarily work on the skin’s surface, exfoliating dead cells and promoting a smoother complexion.
Key Properties and Uses of PHAs:
- Gentle Exfoliation: PHAs offer a milder exfoliation compared to AHAs and BHAs, making them suitable for individuals with sensitive skin.
- Hydration: PHAs have humectant properties, attracting water molecules to the skin and aiding in moisture retention. This makes them an excellent choice for those with dry or dehydrated skin.
- Anti-Aging Benefits: PHAs help improve skin texture, reduce fine lines, and enhance overall skin radiance, contributing to a more youthful appearance.
Understanding the differences between PHA, BHA, and AHA is crucial for making informed skincare choices. While PHAs offer gentle exfoliation and hydration, BHAs excel in deep pore cleansing and anti-inflammatory properties. AHAs, on the other hand, focus on surface exfoliation, brightening, and anti-aging benefits. Incorporating these acids into your skincare routine can address specific concerns and contribute to a healthier, more radiant complexion. Always perform a patch test and consult with a dermatologist before introducing new skincare ingredients to your routine.